VOGUE Paris has been all over Parisian streets. Well, one in particular, and you have probably heard of it.. Champs-Elysées anyone?

Celebrating the best covers of the iconic fashion bible, a plein-air exhibition was set on the Champs, for everyone to admire. Lucky me I happened to be in Paris just on time to witness the public display of love and elegance. Not only did the gorgeous exhibition remind me of the best of the magazine, the endless creativity and audacious choices of its covers – often designed by famous artists and illustrators – but it also showed another side, more engaged in society and reflective of certain times. Just like when the magazine stopped, during WW2, and the post-war covers, totally un-fashioned, but soon followed by the New Look, mirroring society’s bubbly 50s and swinging sixties.

I had not seen most of these covers before, from the 20s illustrated covers to more recent decades’ modern takes on the ‘cover style’, which is why I particularly appreciated this journey through the century in style. Very useful explanations were displayed along the covers, to put it back in context, a blessing that too many exhibitions today miss for the sake of art snobbery.

What I liked most about this exhibition though, was the public aspect of it, this feeling that fashion belongs to everyone and is part of French culture, and for that reason should be exhibited in the street, because eventually, this is where true style and trends are born.

If I made you want to go jump on the first Eurostar, please refrain, the exhibition only lasted for a few weeks and is just over. A book compiling the best Vogue covers is available though, to keep a piece of fashion history.

Pictures: right: cover with Sofia Coppola, one of my favourites from December/January 2005; left: Kate Moss in Vogue Paris October 09 Super-models issue, photography by Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, styled by Emmanuelle Alt, Kate is wearing an Isabel Marant leopard fur jacket.

After discovering jewellery wonders at London Fashion Week and being saturated with those trends of embellishment, studs and pearls, I think I can officially say that jewellery is making a come-back. However, sale figures seem to disagree, since it is apparently one of the sectors which suffer the most from the crisis (LVMH announced a 34% slump in their jewellery sales in 2009. Source: Prestigium).

Well, this editorial ‘La couleur de l’or’, from Vogue Paris November 09, is officially the type of things that would make any fashionista/o rearrange her/his style priorities. And gold is (one of ) the new black(s)! Look at Givenchy Couture or Qasimi. I had given you a hint of golden touch here already!

Styled by Véronique Didry, and starring Vogue Paris lolita Anna ‘Cat’ Selezneva, this series shines by its bright colours and calm unashamed glamour. I love the position of Anna’s hand on this picture, her gaze, and the effortless way she is resting against the other model.

The Jil Sander yellow flannel dress emphasises the appeal of the gold to the eye. Genius with Anna’s baby blond hair. To be honest I am not usually fond of the typical studio-focus of jewellery editorials, but this one looks like a fashion editorial, embedded in reality, and therefore makes it more real, and desirable, and yet there is a part of dream. It’s all that luxury is about, isn’t it? Turning real objects into dreams and making dreams reality.

‘La couleur de l’or’. Vogue Paris November 2009. Styled By Véronique Didry, photographed by Claudia Knoepfel and Stefan Indlekofer. Yellow flannel dress Jil Sander, leather bodice Jean-Claude Jitrois. Top necklace Chaumet, Anna’s necklace Chopard. Bracelets left 2 Marion Godart and 1 Ilias Lalaounis. Anna’s bracelets: 2 Chopard and 1 Belperron. Ring Lydia Courteille.

As part of my inescapable descent towards menswear adoration, I have slowly been obsessed with this latest Prada ad campaign, the hardness and shiny finish of studs on wool, and the hypnotising and mysterious look of that peculiar ephebe, a model that Hedi apparently found in Coachella. Oh, and that Slimane touch, on the soft black and white picture gives this campaign a modern yet timeless aura, and makes the whole collection beyond covetable – unlike the womenswear ads. Not to mention the omnipresent trend of studs, sequins, metal and other embellishments. A modern aesthetics right on trends for the 2010 men. Am I weird, or do you agree?

Prada Avertising Campaign, AW 09. Photographer: Hedi Slimane.

Left: Givenchy ad campaign. Right: Chanel ad campaign. Both are a few years old but I am not sure what season, sorry!

This is a celebration post. To celebrate fashion, and houses which remain true to their values and their artistic standpoint, which have timeless aesthetics and true creative genius.

For me Givenchy  and Chanel embody this ideal, and they were by far my favourite collections for Spring/ Summer 2010 at Paris Fashion Week. You know that when you watch imagery – here advertising campaigns – from a few years ago, and you sense the evolution but also the consistency: the spirit remains the same. They have the classic elegance that makes a style unique and instantly recognisable.

Also a celebration because today is the first anniversary of Blog de Tendances, which I am very proud of. Thank you for reading, commenting, being there. Really. It means a lot to me.

And finally, in the spirit of Paris and birthdays, I am today going to Paris for my best friend’s birthday: this is fate! Happy day, and I wish you all a great weekend!

Jean Shrimpton in New York, by David Bailey. 1962.

After mixed feelings regarding the Gay Icons exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery last time, I nonetheless returned to the Gallery with excitement for the new exhibition The 60s Exposed: Beatles to Bowie. It is no secret that I have a fascination with the Swinging Sixties – as explained here – so I was indeed bound to be excited, but also critical and with high expectations.

The exhibition is a journey through the decade, year by year, with archives of record sleeves, press cuttings, films, clothes and indeed a selection of the best photography – black & white lovers’ delight. Despite a strong focus on 60s music – ‘Beatles to Bowie‘, with great photography of both, but also the Rolling Stones and more obscure bands from that era – the evolution and shift in society are well apparent from 50s kitsch to 70s hippie style.

And so is the fashion obviously – with the apparition of Mary Quant’s famous miniskirts. Interestingly, the visuals, the photography evolve a lot as well, in terms of technique, but also as a form: from mere representation to medium of artistic expression.

And here he comes. The genius of black and white, one of the first true fashion photographer, the one who best captured the essence of the 60s and created the imagery that feeds the imagination of those who didn’t know that era, and brings nostalgia and memories to those who did. Catherine Deneuve’s first husband. The one who first dared photographing a young and naked Jane Birkin.

DAVID BAILEY.

Just for that picture of Mick Jagger wrapped in fur, which could be a modern cover of i-D, it is worth visiting the exhibition. And of course, for those of his muse, Jean Shrimpton (above), arguably one the first supermodels, even before Twiggy.

An entertaining and informative exhibition overall. I only wish it had been more interactive, with more than just one documentary, with extracts of films maybe, a more holistic approach on political and societal changes, a better focus on the sartorial icons – the four dressed mannequins didn’t do much – and if you are going to focus on the music side, fair enough. But then, put some music on!

Pictures by Alize Morand. Qasimi S/S 10 Collection. Watch the catwalk show here.

This is what I love about London Fashion Week: far from the commercial side of NY, the black and white elitism of Paris and the perfect glamour of Milan, you find a diversity of raw talents.

This was Qasimi’s fourth collection although I did not know this designer before, yet there was quite some buzz surrounding the event at the Red Bull Factory. Everyone was saying that it was fantastic last year and a promising talent not to be missed this year. My co-reporter and I landed up front row and got to have exclusive access backstage as well as an interview with the designer himself.

This was probably my favourite show of the whole fashion week, along with more established Matthew Williamson and fresh talent Marko Mitanovski, which is why I wanted to write a special feature about him. An incredible mix of trends (big shoulders, embellishments, bodycon) with traditional oriental style and techniques (drapes, gold, embroidery).

The designer told me he was inspired by ancient spiritualism from the Byzantium era. Soft drapery in delicate chiffon contrasted with bold structured jackets hand-embellished in Swarovski crystals, antique metals, laser-cut mirrors and intricate beading. All of which was completed by jewellery from Scott Wilson and headpieces from Nasir Mazhar.

The dominant shades were cream white and burgundy, with sometimes a touch of turquoise and gold embellishment. According to the designer himself, the ‘Byzantium divine goddesses with strong shoulders’ aimed at bringing ‘positivity and good vibes’. He also revealed that plans for the future involved the following: ‘We are also showing Menswear in Paris and we’d like to develop our collaboration with jewellery designer Scott Wilson’.

What I love about this choice of pictures is that it shows the journey of a piece from the creation process to the runway: this one was particularly spectacular.

Read all my reviews and backstage interviews from the shows on F.TAPE. Reviews from exhibitions at the Somerset House here, from catwalk shows at Vauxhall Fashion Scout here, from designers on the Blow schedule here, and finally from emerging talents at ON/OFF here , with an exclusive interview from engaged cult couturier Ziad Ghanem.

Pictures by Alize Morand. Left: Fiona Paxton. Right: Sam Ubhi.

Jewellery time! After the romantic and pure jewellery pieces from Satya I showed you last time, here are more opulent and sumptuous pieces I spotted at London Fashion Week and wanted to share with you.

On the left, necklaces by Fiona Paxton, a graduate from the Royal College of Art who takes inspiration from ancient Indian techniques and craftsmanship. A perfect example of reinterpretation: where tradition meets metal, which adds a rock edge and instantly transfers into modern life. I can picture it perfect on a white tee with a black leather skirt…

On the right, a raindeer necklace by Sam Ubhi, who takes inspiration from her travels and uses diverse raw materials for her pieces: from bone to horn, semi-precious gems to plain stones. The pieces have a true antique feel which Sam explains: ‘I have a great love for vintage, which comes from my mother, from bags to jewellery, and vintage also inspires me a lot. In that spirit, we also do a lot of one-off pieces.’

Meeting designers and discovering pieces up close, touching them, is a different feeling from a show, which is why I had a crush on these jewellery designers I guess. No celebrities, paparazzi or riot to get a front row seat here. Just the authentic emotion from beautifully made pieces which ally creativity and aesthetics.

PS: On a side note, I am finally back from Paris, where I nearly went to the Chanel show by mistake (!) I had the funny idea to go see the Renoir exhibition at the Grand Palais on Tuesday at 11am, the exact time and place of the show, kept secret then. Fate, I’m telling you! Well, I couldn’t see the exhibition, but I ended up in a café surrounded by Olivier Zahm, Suzy Menkes (litterally sitting next to me) and dozens of fashion editors just out of the show reporting about it, uploading their pictures, opening their Chanel goody bags full of pink gloss and polish and simply.. having lunch! I didn’t get to see the show but I got almost instant reports about it, from the best fashionistas out there. Not bad, eh? I will tell you about all the rest later. Oh, Paris!

Picture by Alize Morand. Jewellery by Satya Jewellery.

Sometimes, there is no need for spectacular shows, sexy minidresses and gothico-esthetico-fashionisto outfits. Simplicity and the softness of raw metal, like this LOVE pendant from Satya Jewellery, one of the great exhibitors at London Fashion Week’s Somerset House. I particularly liked some jewellers this year, and I will come back on that topic soon.

On a side note, I am in Paris. Spotted the ever-fabulous Anna Dello Russo, Editor-at-large of Vogue Nippon, wearing a silver Balmain minidress and Taylor Tomasi, Accessories editor of Marie-Claire US, at the Hôtel Costes on Friday night. I went to a few fashion presentations – including Aganovitch in 3rd arrondissement, where a girl was sleeping in a bed as part of the presentation, and I had a chat with unmissable blogger Diane Pernet. Also some exhibitions I will tell you about, and the Nuit Blanche last night, an all-night of contemporary art performances, with the biggest Disco Ball in the whole world, hanging from a huge crane above the Luxembourg Garden. Oh, and I am interviewing the advisor of the CEO of LVMH on Wednesday.. that’s quite intimidating!

Love to all!

A fashion week really is a marathon – which is why fashionistas’ shoes have a tremendous importance during those times. And also why I haven’t been able to keep you updated with the latest insider info from Planet Fashion, but if you follow my Twitter, you got all the live gossip.

To sum up, I was reporting for ultimate fashion resource F.TAPE behind-the-scenes, talking to exhibitors, designers, fashionistas, interviewing dozens of designers backstage, taking thousands of pictures and… running in between venues on 5″ heels to secure front row seats at über-glamourised shows.

Ok, I didn’t go to Burberry. But I did spot Carine in a Balmain jacket, Mary-Kate Olsen and Emma Watson on the red carpet, guarded by the Royal Police (!). And I got to go to many other talented designer’s catwalk shows: from London giants Vivienne Westwood, Matthew Williamson (above), PPQ to more emerging but nonetheless fabulous Marko Mitanovski, Qasimi or Dean Quinn. And many more, but I will tell you all about my coup-de-coeur for this season, I promise. For now, I just have to run to Paris!

And also, something I realised, is that fashion weeks are not so much about the shows, the clothes on the catwalk, but about the people, the atmosphere, the celebrities, the looks, the parties. Maybe that’s why my camera focused more on the front row than on the model on this picture. And what a front row! Fashion editors seem to be the new celebrities of fashion, from Carine to Anna, to fashion super-figures Suzy Menkes and Alexandra Shulman above.

Photography: Alize Morand. A model on the catwalk at Matthew Williamson S/S 10.

If by any chance, you didn’t feel sexy and glamorous enough with your plumetis tights, lace dress and power-shoulder jacket, try the thigh-high books, aka cuissardes.

What’s not to like about this trend? A black boot, that elongates the leg, keeps you warm, protects you from the cold winter, or rainy London weather, and a long-time friend of über-chic Vogue fashion editor Emmanuelle Alt. Even fashion journalist and blogger Géraldine Dormoy, who favours masculine clothes and a minimalist look has fallen for them.

Far are the days when the thigh-high boot evoked a hookerish Pretty Woman style. It is now a staple of fashion editors worldwide and the ultimate AW09 treat for your feet, in the books of Louis Vuitton (left), Gucci (right), Stella McCartney for a perforated faux-leather version, and Chloé’s fantastic gold and camel boots.

And for the most daring, there are obviously the Nicholas Kirkwood for Rodarte leather straps boots and the Prada fishermen version.

Which ones will you go for? I have made up my mind already. But I personally still heart my ankle boots and knee-high equestrian look..

Left: Marie-Claire Italy, with an embellished Sportmax dress and Gucci boots. Right: Marie-Claire Germany for all Louis Vuitton look.